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History

The Chaîne des Rôtisseurs is an international gastronomic society founded in Paris in 1950. It is devoted to the promotion of fine dining and preserving the camaraderie and pleasures of the table.

The Chaîne is based on the traditions and practices of the ancient French Royal Guild of Goose Roasters, birds that were particularly appreciated in the middle ages. Its authority gradually expanded to the roasting of all poultry, meat and game. The written history of "Les Oyers" has been traced back to the year 1248. At that time King Louis IX, later to be called "Saint" Louis, appointed Etienne Boileau as Provost of Paris giving him the task of bringing order and standards into the organization of the various trades. He collected and reviewed the statutes of more than 100 of these trades, among them the Goose Roasters. Over the years, the activities of the guild were extended to the preparation and sale of all kinds of poultry and meat.

In 1509, during the reign of King Louis XII, some new statutes changed the name of the Guild to "Rôtisseurs" and limited its activities to poultry, game birds, sheep and venison. In 1610 under King Louis XIII, the corporation was granted a royal charter and coat of arms.

The French Revolution at the end of the eighteenth century brought an end to the guild system and the Rôtisseurs were almost forgotten. The seeds of gastronomy had been well sown, however cooking never stopped striving for perfection to become an art. Alas, in 1939 with the outbreak of war, came serious food shortages: it was no longer possible, with the lack of raw materials, to grant Culinary Apprenticeships to the Roasters or Grillers. It was also impossible for mothers to initiate their daughters in the art of the table and this situation lasted for many years. The start of the Second World War put an end to the golden age of gastronomy in France.

At the beginning of 1950, when food restrictions were relaxing, Jean Valby, a journalist who had great interest in the diversity of the French cooking, had produced a savouring gigot a la broche, a fine leg of lamb. He invited two friends to enjoy it with him: Curnonsky, the Prince of Gastronomy and a gourmet, Dr. Auguste Becard. At the third slice, Curnonsky was overjoyed and congratulated Mrs. Valby who had supervised the roast and prepared the meal. He continued by adding that there was virtually a generation that neither know what a roast was nor even how to cook. An association needed to be established with the noble aim to make known and rehabilitate French culinary art. Dr. Becard then commented that during the War years everyone had eaten whatever they could find and as a result their digestive system had particularly suffered. He proposed therefore that the basic principle of the organisation should be one of simple, easily digested cooking essentially comprising of spit-roasts and grills. The realised that they needed to be joined by masters from professions associated with the culinary world.

A few days later two professionals joined: Marcel Dorin, a rotisseur of long-standing and Louis Giraudon, a wraught iron craftsman and specialist in spit roasting equipment. The five met on the Wednesday of the Easter week 1950 for a dinner at the Auberge de la Truite, on the rue Faubourg Saint Honore. Jean Valby gave them some documents to read, which he had prepared regarding the constitution of the proposed association, its by-laws as well as an oath. His propostition did not envisage bringing back the ancient Guild of Spit Roasters but simply to resurrect its spirit. At the initiative of Jean Valby, and with anonimous agreement, the five decided that the association would be called the 'Confrerie de la Chaine des Rotisseurs. The « Confrérie de la Chaîne des Rôtisseurs » was founded and its Constitution officially registered with the Préfecture de Police in Paris on 3rd August, 1950 and published in the « Journal Officiel de la République Française » on 29th August, 1950, page 9316.

September 1950 saw twenty guests attend the first 'diner amical'. On January 25, 1951, at the Hotel Lutetia in Paris, the first Chapitre was held during which 120 members were inducted.

Since then, the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs has continued to develop, not only in France, but throughout the world.

Today, the Chaîne numbers more than 25,000 members in some 100 countries around the world. The international headquarters, the Siege Mondial, is in Paris where the society was founded.

Each member country has its own National Administration, which co-ordinates activities within that country and is responsible for the overall development of the Chaîne nationally. The National Administration also organises the annual Chapitre, which is the prime opportunity for all members of the Chaîne to meet together, and for newly appointed members to be intronised and receive their formal regalia.

The larger countries are divided into Regional Bailliages, and it is at this level that most events are organised.



Curnonsky was the pen name of Maurice Edmond Sailland, a French writer, novelist, biographer and gastronome (born in Angers, France October 12, 1872, died in Paris, July 22, 1956). Often he is considered the inventor of gastronomic motor-tourism as popularized by Michelin, though he himself could not drive. He was know as the "Prince of Gastronomes", and he had in fact been duly elected in a poll of 3,000 chefs held by Paris-Soir in 1927. There was at the time a series of 'Princes', i.e Andre de Lorde, the Prince of Terror. The title Curnonsky received no one else has been given since. The name "Curnonsky" comes from the Latin cur + non "why not?" plus the Russian suffix -sky, as all things Russian were in vogue in 1895, when he coined it. He once said that this nickname was "my tunic of Nessus, as I am neither Russian, nor Polish, nor Jewish, nor Ukrainian, but just an average Frenchman and wine-guy (sacavin)". At the height of his prestige, to honor his eightieth birthday, eighty restaurants marked his favorite table with a copper plaque reading: "Cette place est celle de Maurice Edmond Sailland-Curnonsky, Prince élu des gastronomes, Défenseur et illustrateur de la Cuisine française, Hôte d'honneur de cette maison." This led to the legend that eighty restaurants reserved a table for him every night in case he should show up, though by that point, he rarely went out. Supposedly in his later years he was so heavy he was unable to walk and had to be carried by six friends to his favourite restaurants. On July 22, 1956, at the age of 84, Curnonsky leaned too far out of his window and fell to his death. A celebrated aphorism of Curnonsky's was: "La cuisine, c'est quand les choses ont le goût de ce qu'elles sont. Good cooking is when things taste of what they are." He advocated simple food over complicated, rustic over refined, and often repeated the phrase: "Et surtout, faites simple! And above all, keep it simple!"

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Andre de Lorde, the Prince of Terror. The title Curnonsky received no one else has been given since.